Changing brake pads is one of the more common brake jobs a capable DIY mechanic can tackle at home. But there’s an important difference between changing a filter and working on the brakes.
Your brake pads are directly responsible for creating the friction that slows the car down, so getting the job right matters far more than simply getting the old pads out and the new ones in.
The exact procedure varies between vehicles, but the general process is similar. You need to safely lift the car, remove the wheel, access the caliper, remove the old pads, retract the piston, install the new pads and properly check everything before driving.
Here’s how the process works and where you need to be particularly careful.
What Do You Need to Change Brake Pads?
Before starting, make sure you have the correct parts and tools for your particular vehicle.
Parts
- Correct replacement brake pads
- New pad clips or hardware if required
- Brake cleaner
- Brake lubricant suitable for the specified components
Tools
- Jack
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Wheel brace or suitable socket
- Ratchet and sockets
- Torque wrench
- C-clamp or suitable brake piston tool
- Caliper support hook or suitable wire
Some vehicles require additional tools, particularly those with rear calipers that incorporate the parking brake.
Don’t assume the same piston-retraction method works on every car.
Check the manufacturer’s repair information for your specific vehicle before starting.
Before You Start
Park the vehicle on a firm, level surface.
Put an automatic transmission in Park or a manual transmission in gear, and use wheel chocks to prevent unintended movement.
Before lifting the car, slightly loosen the wheel nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
Then use the manufacturer’s recommended jacking point to lift the vehicle.
Once it’s raised, support it securely with jack stands.
Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone while you’re working on the vehicle.
Once you’re satisfied the vehicle is stable, remove the wheel.
Step 1: Inspect the Brakes Before Removing Anything
With the wheel removed, take a moment to look at the brake assembly.
Check the:
- Brake pads
- Brake rotor or disc
- Caliper
- Brake hose
- Pad clips and hardware
- Surrounding components
Look at the thickness of the existing pads and check whether they’re wearing evenly.
If one pad is dramatically thinner than the other, don’t simply assume you need new pads and move on.
Uneven wear can indicate a sticking caliper, seized hardware or another problem that needs to be addressed.
Also inspect the rotor for deep grooves, cracks, severe corrosion, heat damage or other obvious damage.
Step 2: Remove the Brake Caliper
The exact caliper design differs between vehicles, but you’ll generally need to remove the appropriate caliper retaining or slide bolts.
Once the relevant fasteners are removed, carefully move the caliper away from the rotor.
Do not let the caliper hang from the brake hose.
The brake hose isn’t designed to support the weight of the caliper while you’re working. Use a suitable hook, wire or other support to keep the caliper safely positioned.
You don’t necessarily need to disconnect the hydraulic brake hose to replace the pads.
In fact, avoiding unnecessary disconnection reduces the chance of introducing air into the system.
Step 3: Remove the Old Brake Pads
With the caliper moved out of the way, the brake pads can generally be removed from their position around the rotor.
Pay attention to how the old pads and hardware are positioned before removing them.
This is especially useful if the vehicle uses different inner and outer pads or specific clips and shims.
Once the old pads are removed, compare them with the new ones.
Make sure you’ve got the correct replacement parts before going any further.
Step 4: Inspect the Brake Rotor
Now is a good time to inspect the rotor properly.
The rotor should be checked for:
- Deep scoring
- Cracks
- Severe rust
- Excessive wear
- Heat damage
- Uneven surfaces
A rotor doesn’t automatically need replacing every time you replace brake pads.
However, it should meet the manufacturer’s minimum thickness specification and be in suitable condition for the new pads.
If you’re unsure whether the rotor is still serviceable, have it measured and inspected rather than guessing.
Installing new pads against a severely worn or damaged rotor isn’t a good solution.
Step 5: Retract the Caliper Piston
This is one of the steps where you need to know what type of brake system you’re working on.
As brake pads wear, the caliper piston moves further out to maintain contact with the thinner pads.
The new pads are thicker, so the piston generally needs to move back into the caliper to create enough room.
On some calipers, the piston can be compressed straight back using an appropriate piston tool.
But some rear brake calipers require the piston to be rotated while being compressed because the parking brake mechanism is incorporated into the caliper.
Some newer vehicles use an electronic parking brake and may require a specific service procedure or scan tool.
Don’t simply grab a clamp and force the piston backwards if you don’t know which system you’re dealing with.
You can damage the caliper.
Also keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir while retracting the piston. The fluid level can rise as the piston moves back.
Step 6: Install the New Brake Pads
Before installing the new pads, make sure the contact areas and hardware are clean and correctly positioned.
If the vehicle requires new pad clips, shims or other hardware, install them according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Some brake components may require a specific brake lubricant on designated contact points.
But there’s one rule you shouldn’t forget:
Never contaminate the friction surfaces of the brake pads or rotor with grease, oil or lubricant.
These surfaces need to generate friction. Contamination can seriously affect braking performance.
Make sure each pad is installed in the correct position and orientation.
Step 7: Reinstall the Caliper
Once the new pads are in place and the piston has been correctly retracted, carefully position the caliper back over the pads and rotor.
Reinstall the appropriate bolts or fasteners.
Use the manufacturer’s specified torque values.
This is one reason a torque wrench is useful. Tightening by feel isn’t a substitute for the vehicle manufacturer’s specification, particularly on safety-critical components.
Make sure the caliper is properly secured and that the brake hose isn’t twisted, stretched or rubbing against anything.
Step 8: Reinstall the Wheel
Put the wheel back on and install the wheel nuts.
Tighten them in the appropriate sequence and torque them to the vehicle manufacturer’s specification.
Don’t rely on an impact wrench alone as your final tightening method.
Incorrect wheel-nut torque can create its own safety problems.
Once the wheel is secure, carefully lower the vehicle according to the correct procedure and remove the jack stands.
Repeat the pad replacement process on the other side of the same axle.
Should You Replace Brake Pads on Both Sides?
Generally, brake pads should be replaced as an axle pair.
For example, if the front brake pads are worn, you would normally replace the pads on both front wheels rather than replacing only one side.
This helps maintain consistent braking characteristics across the axle.
If one side has worn dramatically faster than the other, however, investigate the reason for that uneven wear rather than simply installing two new sets of pads and forgetting about it.
Step 9: Pump the Brake Pedal Before Driving
This step is extremely important.
Before moving the vehicle, press the brake pedal several times until it becomes firm.
When the caliper pistons were retracted, the pistons need to move back into their normal operating position.
Until that happens, the brake pedal may travel much further than normal.
Do not start driving with a soft or unusually low brake pedal.
Once the pedal feels firm, check that there are no obvious leaks or warning lights.
Step 10: Check the Brake Fluid
Check the brake fluid reservoir according to your vehicle manufacturer’s instructions.
The fluid level can change when the caliper pistons are retracted.
Don’t automatically add fluid simply because the level isn’t exactly where you expected it to be. The correct level needs to be considered in the context of the brake system and pad condition.
If the level is unusually low or you see evidence of a leak, stop and investigate the cause.
Do New Brake Pads Need to Be Bedded In?
Yes, new pads generally need an appropriate bedding-in process so the pad and rotor surfaces can establish the intended contact.
The exact procedure varies between pad manufacturers and vehicles, so follow the instructions supplied with your brake pads or the vehicle manufacturer’s guidance where available.
Avoid immediately subjecting newly installed brakes to repeated heavy braking unless the specified bedding procedure calls for it.
During the initial drive, pay attention to how the brakes feel.
If the pedal feels soft, the car pulls to one side, braking performance is poor or you hear severe abnormal noises, stop and have the work checked.
Common Mistakes When Changing Brake Pads
A few mistakes are particularly worth avoiding.
Using only a jack
A jack should not be your only support while working on the vehicle.
Letting the caliper hang from the brake hose
Always support the caliper properly.
Getting grease on the pads or rotor
Contaminated friction surfaces can compromise braking.
Forcing the wrong type of caliper piston
Rear brakes with integrated parking-brake mechanisms may require a different procedure.
Replacing only one side
Brake pads should generally be replaced as a pair across the axle.
Forgetting to pump the pedal
Never drive away immediately after reassembly without confirming that the brake pedal is firm.
Guessing torque specifications
Use the manufacturer’s specified torque for the caliper fasteners and wheel nuts.
When Should You Leave the Job to a Mechanic?
Changing brake pads isn’t necessarily beyond a competent DIY mechanic, but you shouldn’t treat it as a job to learn through trial and error.
Professional help makes sense if:
- You don’t have a safe way to support the vehicle
- The caliper piston won’t retract
- You’re unsure how the electronic parking brake works
- Brake components are seized
- You find a brake fluid leak
- The rotor is badly damaged
- The pads show unusual or uneven wear
- The brake pedal remains soft after installation
- You’re unsure whether the caliper or pads have been correctly assembled
The point isn’t that DIY brake work is always unsafe.
It’s that you need to be confident the job has been completed correctly before the vehicle goes back on the road.
Final Thoughts
Changing brake pads involves more than removing an old set and putting a new set in their place.
The job starts with safe vehicle support and inspection, continues through correct caliper and piston handling, and finishes with proper reassembly, a firm brake-pedal check and appropriate bedding-in.
If you know your vehicle, have the right tools and understand the brake system you’re working on, it can be a manageable maintenance job.
But if something doesn’t look right, don’t force it.
A brake system isn’t the place to guess your way through a difficult step. If you’re unsure about the piston mechanism, hardware, rotor condition or final pedal feel, getting the work checked by a qualified mechanic is the safer choice.